Saturday, December 3, 2011

The Jaded New Orleans Crab Boil

Alligator kabob and Turtle Soup. The thought made me queasy - a strange thought considering that I have the toughest stomach - working with big ass wounds all day. I guess I'm not ready for deep cuisine dining.

After immersing myself in New Orleans cuisine for 3 days I had but one thought - there is only so much you can do to fried food - change the breading. The nuances of Cajun and Creole seasoning are totally lost on me - one restaurant's version doesn't differ much from the next and the price differences don't justly themselves.

I bemoan the lack of opportunity to sample a less touristy establishment but I guess who wants to cater to locals when you can parlay your history for a few dollars more to the traveler hungry for the experience. Disappointing the NOLA crab boil is, after Boiling Crab in the Orange Country upped the ante by offering the traditional boil with different sauces other than lemon and cocktail sauce. As for fried everything, your Chinese migrant's neighborhood fish fry is just as good.

Muffulettas at Central Grocery along Decatur St


At the end of the 3rd day munching on Cajun fried soft-shell crab, crawfish, catfish and shrimp, and a succession of gumbo, sausage, jambalaya and étouffée, all I can mutter to myself is seriously?!? The mere suggestion of following thru with bread pudding and pecan pie made me want to empty my stomach posthaste.



Beyond these mainstays - is there much to look forward to, enough to make you linger? You peruse the celebrity chef offerings as that of John Besh and Emeril and you see that their menu highlights are still continental fare, not regional cuisine. Which is perhaps why exotic cuisine is offered as a palate tickler.

Beignets and Cafe Au Lait at Cafe du Monde



There is not much to miss unless you came to sample the cuisine with it's history. This is why you have to eat the beignets with cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde.  Over a million suckers, including me, have lined it's pathways to do so. And sample oysters at Acme for 14 dollars a dozen.


Oysters at ACME along Iberville St at the French Quarter

Yet beyond the falling out with the cuisine, I felt right at home, with the chance to learn first hand about the city, as a whole, not just of the French Quarter, a mistake most tourists make. It has been my group's custom to always book a city tour whenever we visit a new place. It is the fastest way of getting the essence of the whole city from it's denizens, feel their love for their place and get some pointers on how to experience their town like a new friend.


And dont forget to tip, smile and spread the love.

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